Just a short boat ride from Bangkok lies Nonthaburi, a province that feels worlds away from the city’s chaos—yet is deeply connected by the Chao Phraya River. Rich in culture, history, and unexpected experiences, Nonthaburi offers everything from local markets and quirky museums to riverside cafés run by inmates. This day trip is anything but ordinary.
Ride the River: A Scenic Start
While you can certainly drive to Nonthaburi, taking the boat from central Bangkok offers a much more scenic and immersive experience. Hop on an express boat at Sathorn Pier (Central Pier) and enjoy the relaxing cruise north along the Chao Phraya River. As the cityscape fades, you’ll pass by traditional wooden houses, riverside temples, and glimpses of everyday life on the water. The ride takes about 30 minutes and drops you off at Nonthaburi Pier (Pibul Songkhram 3).
A Glimpse of the Past: Nonthaburi Museum
Just steps from the pier, tucked next to the old city hall building, is the charming Nonthaburi Museum. Though very small, it offers a meaningful look into the province’s history, especially its renowned pottery traditions. It’s a great place to start your visit and get a sense of the town’s cultural roots before heading out to explore more.
The Market: Flavours, Finds, and Local Life
A short walk toward the clock tower brings you to a vibrant local market, where hundreds of stalls line the streets. You’ll find everything from fresh fruits and ready-to-eat Thai street food to everyday clothing and household goods. Don’t miss the chance to try some local favourites or pick up seasonal fruits—Nonthaburi durians are famous for a reason!
Cook & Coff: Coffee with a Cause
Just a 10-minute walk from the pier, Cook & Coff is a unique riverside café with a powerful story. Located within the ground of the prison and operated by trained inmates from Bang Kwang Central Prison—Thailand’s highest-security facility—this café is part of a vocational training program run by the Corrections Department. Inmates nearing release who have demonstrated good behavior are trained in culinary and hospitality skills, giving them a valuable second chance to reintegrate into society.
Beyond skill-building, the program offers inmates a share of the café’s profits—50–70% of sales—as compensation for their work. This income is saved to support their families or help them start a business after release.
The atmosphere is peaceful and welcoming, and the food is both delicious and affordable. I had fish cakes, banana fritters, iced coffee, noodles, pizza, and cake—and every dish was genuinely tasty. It’s an experience that’s not only satisfying but also deeply meaningful.
What’s behind the name? – The name Cook & Coff carries a clever double meaning. In English, “cook” refers to food preparation, but it’s also a homophone of the Thai word คุก (cook), which means “prison.” It’s a playful yet poignant wordplay.
Pak Kret & Koh Kret: River Island Charm and Mon Culture
If you have extra time, continue north to Pak Kret, a riverside district known for its artistic spirit and heritage. The highlight here is Koh Kret, a small island created in the 18th century when a canal was cut to shorten boat travel. It’s home to the Mon community, famous for their traditional pottery and distinct cultural identity.
To get to Koh Kret from Nonthaburi, you’ll need to take a taxi to Wat Sanam Nuea in Pak Kret, then hop on a short ferry or long-tailed boat across the river. (There is no direct boat between Nonthaburi Pier and Pak Kret.)
Rent a bicycle (50 baht/ day) or explore the island on foot at your own pace. Stop by local kilns, sample snacks at riverside eateries, and visit serene temples like Wat Poramai Yikawat, known for its rare Mon-style Buddha images and leaning riverside stupa. The temple is the last in Thailand to have preserved Buddhist prayers in the Mon language. The weekend market is especially lively with handmade crafts, herbal drinks, and foods you won’t find elsewhere.
Other Places Worth a Stop
- Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Worawihan: A magnificent riverside temple with Thai-Chinese architecture, located in Bang Si Mueang.
- Nonthaburi Waterfront Park: A peaceful riverside promenade ideal for a sunset stroll or a midday break under the trees.
- Riverside restaurants on Koh Kret or around Pak Kret: There are plenty of riverside restaurants around here. Emmy and I went to Rongsi Studio on Koh Kret. The atmosphere, the food and the service are great.
A Day Well Spent
Nonthaburi may not shine with the glitter of Bangkok’s big-name attractions, but that’s exactly its charm. This riverside province invites you to slow down and discover a different rhythm—one shaped by tradition, resilience, and the gentle flow of the Chao Phraya.
Whether you’re sipping coffee made by someone rewriting their story, wandering through local markets, or cycling past ancient kilns on Koh Kret, Nonthaburi quietly rewards the curious traveller.
Getting There:
Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat from Sathorn Pier in Bangkok to Nonthaburi Pier (Pibul Songkhram 3). From there, you can walk to the museum, market, and Cook & Coff. To visit Koh Kret, take a taxi to Wat Sanam Nuea in Pak Kret, then take a short ferry across the river.
Best Time to Visit:
While you can visit Nonthaburi anytime throughout the year, weekends are ideal if you plan to visit Koh Kret.