Ayutthaya – An Escape into Thailand’s Past

Just an hour by car or an hour and a half by train north of Bangkok, Thailand’s former capital Ayutthaya offers an escape into the country’s rich past. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to some of Asia’s best historical parks, ancient temples, serene riverside villages, and well-preserved local craft communities. You can explore Wat Mahathat and Wat Chaiwatthanaram by bicycle, take boat tours along the Chao Phraya River, and shop at local markets like Hua Ro Market. Nourish yourself with regional delicacies such as boat noodles, grilled river prawns, and roti sai mai (Thai cotton candy). By travelling slowly and supporting community-led initiatives, you’ll experience the soulful heart of Ayutthaya while contributing to its preservation.


Dive into History at Ayutthaya Historical Park

First-time visitors should head to Ayutthaya Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in the centre of the city, for a comprehensive overview of its history and past glory. Surrounded by ruins, it’s not difficult to imagine the grandeur that once defined the kingdom of Ayutthaya. The park includes four main temples — Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mahathat, and Wat Ratchaburana — as well as the Royal Palace and Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit.
I recommend visiting either in the morning or evening to avoid the tour groups from Bangkok and the heat. We spent a night in Ayutthaya so we went in the evening and almost had the park to ourselves.

Apart from the four of us, there were only a few other people during our visit to the historical park.
The Buddha head entwined in tree roots at Wat Mahathat is one of Ayutthaya’s most iconic landmarks.
This historic chedi, now a roundabout, is Wat Sam Phum. It’s on a highway before you arrive Ayutthaya town.

Outside the park, historical ruins can be found scattered around Ayutthaya — some near the river, some along town roads, and even in the middle of traffic circles.

Another ruin, taken from my room at a small AirBnB we stayed in 2024.

Historic Temples Outside Ayutthaya Historical Park

There are countless temples in Ayutthaya — some are called temples but are actually just ruins, while others are centuries old yet still active. If you want to see them all, you would need to stay for a few weeks! Below are my favourites, which I make a point to visit every time I’m in Ayutthaya.

1. Wat Chaiwatthanaram
Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, just across from the city island.

  • Famous for its majestic Khmer-style prang (tower) and scenic riverfront setting.
  • Gorgeous at sunset, with fewer crowds than the central temples.

2. Wat Phanan Choeng
A highly revered working temple (built in 1324), featuring a massive 14-meter seated golden Buddha.

To experience something the locals do, walk down to the river to feed the fish. Feeding fish at temples is a common practice, particularly in Thailand, rooted in Buddhist principles of merit-making (making good deeds) and showing compassion to living beings.

As you step into the main hall at Wat Phanan Choeng, the towering golden Buddha, framed by intricate murals, is sure to leave you in awe.

3. Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
Known for its huge reclining Buddha, an impressive chedi (stupa) built to celebrate a military victory, and beautiful rows of seated Buddha statues.

Quick Tips:
Temples outside the historical park tend to be much less crowded, making them perfect for quiet exploration, meditation, or photography. Many are still active monasteries, so be sure to dress respectfully and keep your voice low.


Getting Around

Attractions in Ayutthaya aren’t close to one another, so it’s best to rent a bicycle or take a tuk-tuk.
If you arrive by train, you can rent a bicycle or catch a tuk-tuk at the railway station. Otherwise, tuk-tuks are usually available outside the historical park and in front of the main temples. Ayutthaya is very flat, and most town roads aren’t very busy, making it very cycling-friendly.


🚲 Bicycle Route 1 — “Riverside Reverence”

Wat Phanan Choeng

  • Arrive around 8 AM to hear the morning chanting, or earlier if you want to offer alms to the monks.
  • Step inside the main hall to see the impressive giant seated Buddha.
  • Walk down to the river to feed the fish and enjoy the fresh air.

Japanese Village (Ban Yipun)

  • A historic Japanese enclave that thrived from the 17th to mid-18th centuries.
  • A peaceful shady garden and well-curated museum make this a refreshing break from temple visits.
My sister paying her entry fee at the Japanese Village

Wat Phutthaisawan

  • After visiting the Japanese Village, cross the bridge and turn right, keeping the river on your right.
  • This ancient temple is usually very quiet — ideal for a meditative stroll.

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

  • Cycle another 3 km to reach these stunning Khmer-style ruins.
  • Sit under the trees and soak in the historical atmosphere.

Mayura’s House Riverside Café

  • Next to Wat Chaiwatthanaram, this beautiful café serves Thai food, cakes, and refreshing drinks.

🚲 Bicycle Route 2 — “Golden Fields & Sacred Spaces”

Wat Phanan Choeng (see details above)

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

  • Arrive before 9 AM to beat the tour groups from Bangkok.
  • Walk around the towering chedi and try to count the rows of Buddha statues — I lose count every time!
  • If you’re not afraid of heights, climb up the steep chedi for a panoramic view.
  • Don’t miss the reclining Buddha before you leave.

Ayutthaya Historical Park (see details above)

  • Spend time exploring the main historical sites at the heart of the city. The park comprises of four temples which normally requires at least an hour to see all of them.

Homm Klin Café

  • Stop for coffee and Thai desserts opposite Wat Ratchaburana. If you’re too tired to explore on foot, simply enjoy the temple views from the café’s upstairs balcony.
A view from the top floor balcony of Homm Klin Cafe
Inside Homm Klin Cafe
These are the prettiest coconut rolls I’ve ever seen, almost too pretty to be eaten.

Besides exploring the historical ruins and temples, make sure to visit some of Ayutthaya’s local markets too. When I visited with my sister and mum, we stopped by the evening market on Bang Lan Road to pick up some street food and explored Hua Ro Market the next morning. Everything was incredibly affordable, and every dish I tried was absolutely delicious. The markets offered a wonderful glimpse into local life — vibrant, welcoming, and full of irresistible flavours.

Lastly, don’t forget to try roti saimai when you are here. The most famous shop is Roti Sai Mai Mae Pom (Bib Gourmand, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2023) which has been serving this precious dessert for 37 years. Another famous one is Roti Sai Mai Abeedeen-Pranom Sangaroon which has been opened for over 70 years. There are many more shops along U-Thong Road near Ayutthaya hospital.

An evening market on Bang Lan Road
Everything I tried at the market on Bang Lan Road (including these fish cakes) was so tasty.
A 200 years’ old Hua Ro Market is most lively in the morning when locals come to have breakfast and buy takeaways.
My sister searching through these small drawers for certain types of buttons
I was at Hua Ro Market before 8 AM and got the last box of Kanom Krok. Lucky me!
We went to buy roti saimai at Mae Pom’s the day we arrived but it’s sold out. So we had to order and pick it up the next day.
My room at Baipud Hometel is very basic but quiet and comfy.
Our breakfast at The Summer Coffee near our AirBnB. On the left is their signature ice-coffee with sai mai candy floss. On the right is a spicy Thai sausage roll.